Kushi maru

For a first kushikatsu skewer, consider the whiting. One diner’s review singled out the generous piece of fish and the contrast between its crisp coating and fluffy flesh. Another praised the crunchy batter and sweetness of the onion, which offers a different bite. Kushi maru centres its menu on skewers served with an original sauce, with choices including lotus root, prawn with shiso and the half-boiled egg skewer called Tamachan. You could start with the assorted selection of 5 skewers, then add any that catch your eye.

There is more to choose from than fried food: sashimi and simmered dishes help round out a meal. Some diners have enjoyed the sashimi, and the menu lists options such as the day’s fresh-fish namero and Hokkaido water octopus sashimi. The beef-tendon stew is described as being simmered slowly; one diner recalled its tender texture and sweet-savoury flavour. After a few skewers, beef-tendon rice makes a fitting finish.

A U-shaped counter makes the casual dining room well suited to eating alone. For a drink while you wait for the skewers, try the Sansho Bariking: Bariking mixed with soda and finished with a dusting of Japanese pepper. One reviewer recommended this combination, which suits an evening of sipping and sampling skewers at an easy pace.